There used to be a little camp next to the Utopia health clinic, a few hours north of Alice Springs, called Jeannie's camp. A stack of abandoned cars blocked it from view of the road but it was there. It made sense for Jeannie to live close to the clinic because she is a ngangker - a bush doctor or healer.
She lives in Alice Springs now but it doesn't stop people travelling the distance to see her. At any hour. And she always has a supply of bush medicine made and ready.
Today she shows me some ilpengk ointment she has made and stored in an old milk powder tin. It looks like a yellowed balm and has a strong menthol smell.
Laid out in front of her is a painting she is working on, with several coloured paint pots that accidentally coordinate well with her blouse and blanket. She is, of course, an expert colourist.